Vietnam North to South – Day 4: Arriving in Hạ Long Bay

We left Ninh Bình at quarter to eight and rode almost 200 kilometres to Hạ Long Bay. Known for its many limestone islets, the bay is a very popular destination: there are around five hundred boats providing transport and accommodation to tourists. The bay’s name means “Descending Dragon.” Legend has it that when fighting off foreign invaders, the local Vietnamese were aided by dragons who spat jade into the water to form a defensive wall. Seeing the beautiful landscape they created, the dragons decided to settle down, and they live in the bay to this day.

We arrived in the harbour of Hạ Long late in the morning and took a small boat to ferry us over to the ship where we would spend the night. During lunch, the ship started to move, towing the little boat behind us as we watched the beautiful limestone outcrops pass by on our left and right. Our ship formed part of a string of vessels headed to the most popular tourist stop in the bay.

From our new outpost, we took our little boat to Bồ Hòn Island, which is home to three caves. Each of these is larger than the last, culminating in the so-called “Surprise Cave,” which extends deep into the mountain and contains giant stalactite and stalagmite formations. Visitors to these caves like to spot different shapes made by geological processes; one can find a dragon, a turtle, and even a penis, which has been lit in red to make sure people do not miss it.

Our second stop for the day was the island Ti Tốp, named after the Soviet Cosmonaut Gherman Titov. The place is popular among tourists for its beach as well as its lookout over Hạ Long Bay; one has to climb over four hundred steps to reach the top, but by the time we got there, the brightening sun hid behind the clouds and did not come out for the rest of the day. Still, the view was spectacular and well worth the jostling. The New Year’s holidays are, of course, still in full swing, meaning every tourist attraction gets a fair share of visitors not only from Vietnam but also from the rest of East Asia.

A boat in the bay
A fisherman's boat
Ha Long Bay in the mist
Slightly better weather
Bluer skies above Ha Long
A temple in a rock
Stalagmites
The strange ceiling of the cave
A massive stalagnate
The same
A phallic stalagmite
A full view of the cave
A bay within Ha Long Bay
The view from the top of Ti Tốp
The same
A ship in the night

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