The Baltics: A Few Notes

Having left Vilnius this morning, I want to jot down a few notes on the differences I observed between the Baltic countries while they are still fresh in my mind. Firstly, the capital cities are very different architecturally. Tallinn does have quite a few imposing baroque and gothic buildings, but its alleyways, city walls, and towers give it a distinctly medieval feel. Riga, on the other hand, has a strong Hanseatic atmosphere thanks to its prominent brick gothic churches and its location on the wide Daugava River. Much of Riga’s urban fabric is also woven out of art nouveau. Finally, Vilnius is the quintessential baroque city, though it boasts a few neoclassical and gothic gems.

Of the three cities, Tallinn is the most modern, which also appears to be the case for Estonia as a whole. The public transportation is very dependable, every place accepts payment by card, and people mostly speak solid English. In that regard, I find it noteworthy that Estonia is the least religious of the Baltic states, with almost two thirds of its population lacking a religious affiliation. Historically, however, the majority of Estonia’s population was Lutheran, and the Russian minority continues to constitute a notable Orthodox presence. As for Latvia, most of its two-thirds Christian population is Lutheran, while three quarters of Lithuania’s population claims adherence to Catholicism.

Lithuania is also set apart by its closer cultural ties to Poland and Central Europe, in contrast to the more lasting Nordic and Germanic influences in Latvia and Estonia. All three countries have a history of Russian domination, but while Russians make up between a quarter and a fifth of the population in Estonia and Latvia, the biggest minority in Lithuania are the Poles. On the other hand, what separates Estonia from Latvia and Lithuania culturally is its proud insistence on its Finno-Ugric roots. Estonians are consequently much more likely to aspire towards a Nordic identity, though I think Latvia also has some claim to becoming part of this club.  

All that said, I still have no idea whether to begin conversations in English or Russian across the Baltics. In Estonia I felt quite confident using English despite hearing Russian used quite widely, but I grew uncertain in Latvia and Lithuania. There I was often answered in the local languages, and people seemed cold and unfriendly whether I opened in English or Russian. Perhaps this is not so much a question of language but of culture.

Finally, I think my long rides through the countryside of these three states give me some authority to say that there is variation in this area as well. Estonia and Latvia seem to be more forested than Lithuania, with conifers and birches particularly prevalent in Estonia. The population density is also higher in Lithuania than it is to the countries to its north, which is not surprising given Lithuania’s population is almost as big as those of its northern counterparts combined.

Tallinn

Riga

Vilnius