Bangkok: Across the River in Thonburi

I began the day by finishing my move into my new apartment, after which I set off for the city again. Walking towards the centre, I caught a tuk-tuk, and for 100 baht it carried me all the way to the pier by Wat Pho. The pier lies opposite to the famous Wat Arun, whose pale spires rise from the river in perfect symmetry. Dating to the 17^th century, Wat Arun assumed a special importance under King Taksin, who established a new capital on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River following the Burmese destruction of Ayutthaya. It was during Taksin’s reign that Wat Arun housed the Emerald Buddha and formed part of the royal palace.

Taking the ferry for a mere five baht, I arrived right by the entrance of Wat Arun along with a swarm of other tourists. The popular thing to do nowadays is to rent traditional Thai costumes to visit the temple – preferably in the company of a cameraman. I have been told that historical films and series are the vogue in Thailand, and I imagine this pastime must be part of a broader trend. On the other hand, I have seen people rent costumes to visit sites in various East Asian countries, so this may just be the spirit of the age.

In contrast to Wat Arun, the other temples in Thonburi were practically empty. I only bumped into a few monks by the three gleaming chedis of Wat Khrua Wan Worawihan, and there were not all that many visitors at Wat Rakhangkhositaram either. Walking south again as I could not find a tuk-tuk, I stopped by the massive Wat Kalayanamit Woramahawihan, whose main building was undergoing renovations. Just a short and uncomfortable walk over a bridge to the south stands Wat Prayun, a tall white stupa surrounded by a ring of smaller stupas on a round pedestal.

Having finished my itinerary on the Thonburi side, I crossed the river to visit the nearby flower market. I was expecting to see something more along Chinese or European lines: flowers in bouquets intended as gifts and so on, but the market was dominated by marigolds – the flowers of choice for dedication in temples. Wreaths of white and purple flowers stood out in the sea of orange, but they looked like temple offerings as well. On the fringes of the market sat sellers of various other goods, especially fruits and vegetables but also fish.

After eating lunch, I decided to take a tuk-tuk back to my apartment. Realising that I would not know how to explain the location to the driver, however, I opted instead for the nearby Dusit Palace. The change effected only a marginal improvement: my driver seemed not to understand what the Dusit Palace was, and when he did, he could not fathom why I would want to go there. The reasons for his confusion emerged as soon as we arrived: the palace and even the surrounding plaza are separated from the rest of the world by a heavily protected iron fence. In retrospect, this should have occurred to me, as I was aware that the complex is the seat of Thailand’s current king.

After taking a few quick pictures, I moved on to the nearby Wat Benchamabophit. Known for its Italian marble and European influences, the temple was not the best place to visit today, as some kind of religious ceremony was going on. A swarm of young Buddhist monks with bare heads and shaved eyebrows had gathered under the marquees and proceeded to worship in the main building, which was closed to visitors. I had more luck at Wat Somanas Rajavaravihara. The temple under the golden chedi was also closed, but at least the complex remained empty and peaceful – except for two middle-aged men engaged in earnest conversation under a tree in the courtyard.