Bhutan – Day 6: Jakar and Environs

Today was one of those lopsided days, with a packed itinerary in the morning and a long bus journey after lunch. We began with an early visit to Jampey Lhakhang, one of the oldest monasteries in Bhutan. It is said the monastery was founded by the great Tibetan conqueror Songtsen Gampo, who was advised that a giant demoness possessed his realm. In an effort to subdue her, Songtsen Gampo had thirteen monasteries built at the same time across the demoness’s body, including two in Bhutan. The ancient monasteries in Jakar and Paro pinned down the left ankle and knee of the demoness. Her heart was subdued by the monastery in Lhasa.

It is no surprise, then, that Jampey Lhakhang feels more historic than many other monasteries. It is less grand and less symmetrical than its modern counterparts. An interesting fact I learned at Jampey Lhakhang is that many monasteries have four stupas of different colours: red, yellow, white, and blue or black, as blue tends to be expensive. These correspond to the four cardinal directions and the four Buddhist kings representing virtues that combat four major sins. These kings are often depicted at temple entrances.

From Jampey Lhakhang, we continued on foot to Kurjey Lhakhang, a monastery that claims an ancient history stretching all the way back to Padmasambhava. It is said the guru left an imprint of his body in one of the niches at the oldest shrine in the complex, and his temple features depictions of all his disciples. The monastery was quite a sight to behold. It comprises three massive buildings that are enclosed by a wall lined with white stupas, and a massive peach tree flanks the complex on its left side.

Our final temple for the morning was Tamshing Gomba, which is so ancient that part of its inner sanctum lacks wooden floors, and tourists are not expected to take off their shoes in that area. It is believed that Tamshing Gomba was established by the legendary blacksmith-turned-terton Pema Lingpa, who also painted its walls. Many of the religious icons are thus in a lamentable state, as painting over the terton’s art would amount to sacrilege. The complex has a few other quirks related to Pema Lingpa. For example, it is said that the short terton had the ceilings built low so that visitors would be forced to bow down to him. He also made a heavy sheet of chainmail which, when taken on three clockwise runs around the main sanctum, has the power to erase all of its wearer’s sins.

After stopping by the local Red Panda brewery and eating lunch farther down the road, we left Jakar to begin our return journey to the West. Heading to our accommodation in Phobjikha, we drove through much of the day and much of the night, only making a few pit stops on the way. The only meaningful touristic visit we made on this leg of the journey was at the museum of the Trongsa Dzong’s lookout tower. It houses a number of artefacts related to Bhutan’s royal and religious history, including the original crown of the second Wangchuk king.