Late Summer in Bohemia
This weekend was presumably the year’s last warm and sunny weekend. Our family used the occasion to pay a visit to a relation near the northern city Liberec, where we gathered blueberries and mushrooms and made merry. The hills in the borderlands are very peaceful, and much of our visits consist of sitting on a terrace talking about how quiet it is.
On Sunday, it occurred to me that of all the nearby places I
had intended to visit, the Castle Hazmburk, which we drove past on several occasions,
was still on my list. Perched on one of the hilltops that constitute the
Central Bohemian Highlands, it offers unparalleled views of the extinct
volcanic range. The castle’s name comes from a corruption of the German
“Hasenburg”, which literally means “Hare Castle”, as it belonged to the family
Zajíc, which means “Hare” in
Czech.
Being in the neighbourhood, my sister and I also visited the
“Hag” (as in, old woman) Menhir in Slavětín, a rock of unknown provenance, but likely of pagan
significance. During the forcible recatholicisation of Bohemia in the
seventeenth century, it was defaced with an iron cross, which eventually came
loose and took down part of the rock with it. We also stopped by the town
Louny, which is famous for its beautiful western gate and the Church of Saint
Nicholas. Its relatively unusual, tented roof fits in harmoniously with the
slopes of the surrounding volcanoes.
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