The Wild West... of Bohemia
The excursion we made this Sunday was rather megalomaniacal for a day trip. We started in Cheb, one of the westernmost towns in the Czech Republic and a two hours’ drive from Prague. More German than Czech in its architecture, Cheb offers some rather unique sights, which include a colourful block of buildings with outer wooden beams nicknamed Špalíček (“the little chopping block”) or an almost entirely black castle tower.
Our next
stop was Františkovy Lázně, a spa town favoured by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe,
Johann Strauss, and Franz Kafka. Its main attractions are the numerous ornate
buildings – hotels and sanatoria – built atop the salutary springs, which are
rich in sodium sulphate and carbon dioxide (I have no idea what either of these
are good for, but they must be popular for a reason). The town continues to
serve its original purpose to this day and was designated a UNESCO site shortly
after our visit.
It was a
good a time as any to make a stop in Aš, one of the Czech Republic’s westernmost
towns. Aš has a nice church and chateau but would hardly be a tourist
attraction if it were not for one geographic quirk: driving north, south, or
west, one inevitably reaches the German border in a matter of minutes. On our
way back east, we passed Seeberg Castle and explored the Soos nature reserve –
a placid fen with oligotrophic lakes, mineral springs, and mofette (little
fumaroles).
Our last
destination was Mariánské lázně, another famous spa town, though we did not see
much as the sun was already setting and we wanted to get home in time for a
sensible dinner.
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