Day 3 in Kilifi County: A Morning in Mnarani
I woke up at around six and one of my friends did as well. We decided that instead of waiting for the rest of the group to wake up and slowly make its way to breakfast, we would catch a boda to the beach and join them later. Catching a boda in Kilifi is no great challenge. Walking along the street, a tourist is bound to attract the attention of a passing motorcyclist within a few minutes, and if that does not work, one can always find drivers hanging around the major junctions, larger roads, and tourist joints.
People seem
to wake up much earlier in East Africa than they do in Europe. We ascribed this
to the fact that it becomes unbearably hot during the day, which must make any
kind of strenuous work unbearable. Whatever the reason, we were the only
foreigners on the beach that morning and were approached for pictures several
times. After walking up and down the shore for a bit, we could not find a place
to sit down, so we took a matatu to Mazingira Park and walked around until it
was time to meet the rest of the group for breakfast at a nearby café. I was
surprised by how well-maintained the park was, and by the number of beautiful
baobab trees and giant millipedes within it.
After
breakfast, I rode a boda with another friend to the Mnarani Ruins. The pictures
I found on the internet did not quite do justice to the fact that the site
stands on top of a hill to the south of Kilifi Bridge: From among the baobabs
by the ruins, one can see the boats streaming in and out of the inlet carrying
goods and tourists. While Mnarani is not nearly as large as Gedi, some of the
engravings and inscriptions on the buildings are much better preserved. Mnarani
also has a snake park with some of the same snakes I saw in Gedi, like green
and black mambas, large brown spitting cobras, puff adders, and pythons.
We spent
the rest of the day on the beach and spent the night on a boat. With the moon
only making an appearance a little before dawn, the stars swarmed the dark sky,
where the occasional satellite and shooting star flashed into and out of sight.
The next day was exceedingly windy. Some of us swam by the boat but having
woken up quite early, I lay down and caught a few moments of sleep. I left
Kilifi in the afternoon to catch a matatu to Malindi, from which I returned to
Nairobi at night.
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