Day Two in Bangkok: More Rattanakosin Temples
Having figured out almost all the logistics of my long-term stay (including accommodation), I spent my second morning in Bangkok touring more monuments in my neighbourhood. For the next few months, I will be living and working in northeastern Phra Nakhon, a district that encompasses Rattanakosin Island, which was designated as the capital of Rattanakosin Kingdom by Phutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I) in 1782.
My first
stop was the Democracy Monument, a group of statues commemorating the 1932
Revolution which turned Thailand into a constitutional monarchy. At its centre,
flanked by four tall wing-like structures, is a turret, on top of which stand
two offering bowls. These support a representation of a palm-leaf manuscript
box containing the constitution of 1932. The monument stands at the centre of a
busy intersection, from which the road leads directly to the National Museum in
the West and the Wat Suthat Thepwararam in the South.
My next
stop was the nearby Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan, also known as the iron palace
for its metal-covered roof. The structure supports 37 golden spires (24 at its
lower level, 12 on the second, and one at the top), symbolising the bodhipakkhiyā
dhamma, the 37 qualities conducive to one’s spiritual awakening. As the clouds
were beginning to set in, I decided to squeeze in one last visit to a monument
before going back to my hotel and working for the rest of the day.
Heading
south again from the Democracy Monument, I arrived at Wat Suthat Thepwararam.
The Temple stands just to the south of the legendary Giant Swing, a red wooden
structure dating to the late 18th century. The Giant Swing was used
for the Triyampawai ceremony, an originally Tamil tradition believed to have
been brought over to Siam in the 14th century. Commemorating a Hindu
creation myth, the tradition consisted of celebrants swinging back and forth
while attempting to snatch a bag of coins from one of the pillars. It was
discontinued for multiple reasons, including injuries and its burden on public
finances.
Two large
structures are located in the complex of Wat Suthat Thepwararam, both of them
housing large golden statues of the Buddha. The truly remarkable aspect of
these halls, however, is the richness of their murals, which span all the walls
and pillars in both buildings. These paintings depict various historical and
legendary events, as well as very evocative scenes from Buddhist Hell. The
northern building stands in the middle of a courtyard, which is enclosed by arcades,
and under their roofs sit even more statues of the Buddha.
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