Day Two in Bangkok: More Rattanakosin Temples

Having figured out almost all the logistics of my long-term stay (including accommodation), I spent my second morning in Bangkok touring more monuments in my neighbourhood. For the next few months, I will be living and working in northeastern Phra Nakhon, a district that encompasses Rattanakosin Island, which was designated as the capital of Rattanakosin Kingdom by Phutthayotfa Chulalok (Rama I) in 1782.

My first stop was the Democracy Monument, a group of statues commemorating the 1932 Revolution which turned Thailand into a constitutional monarchy. At its centre, flanked by four tall wing-like structures, is a turret, on top of which stand two offering bowls. These support a representation of a palm-leaf manuscript box containing the constitution of 1932. The monument stands at the centre of a busy intersection, from which the road leads directly to the National Museum in the West and the Wat Suthat Thepwararam in the South.

My next stop was the nearby Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan, also known as the iron palace for its metal-covered roof. The structure supports 37 golden spires (24 at its lower level, 12 on the second, and one at the top), symbolising the bodhipakkhiyā dhamma, the 37 qualities conducive to one’s spiritual awakening. As the clouds were beginning to set in, I decided to squeeze in one last visit to a monument before going back to my hotel and working for the rest of the day.

Heading south again from the Democracy Monument, I arrived at Wat Suthat Thepwararam. The Temple stands just to the south of the legendary Giant Swing, a red wooden structure dating to the late 18th century. The Giant Swing was used for the Triyampawai ceremony, an originally Tamil tradition believed to have been brought over to Siam in the 14th century. Commemorating a Hindu creation myth, the tradition consisted of celebrants swinging back and forth while attempting to snatch a bag of coins from one of the pillars. It was discontinued for multiple reasons, including injuries and its burden on public finances.

Two large structures are located in the complex of Wat Suthat Thepwararam, both of them housing large golden statues of the Buddha. The truly remarkable aspect of these halls, however, is the richness of their murals, which span all the walls and pillars in both buildings. These paintings depict various historical and legendary events, as well as very evocative scenes from Buddhist Hell. The northern building stands in the middle of a courtyard, which is enclosed by arcades, and under their roofs sit even more statues of the Buddha.

The Democracy Monument
Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan
The eastern building of Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan
The entire complex
The Iron Palace
Another view of the Iron Palace
The Giant Swing
Wat Suthat Thepwararam
The same
A modern-looking guardian statue
A golden Buddha statue at Wat Suthat Thepwararam

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