The Beer Country

A few days before I returned to Oxford, my dad and I made one last trip around Bohemia. Our first stop was in Kounov, the fields above which are home to a mysterious collection of stone rows. It is unclear when or why these rows were built, with hypotheses about their use ranging from ancient observatory to new-age boundary stones. The former theory is supported by their apparent alignment with some astronomical phenomena, but the site lacks a regular structure and standardised stone sizes, which are typical of such ‘calendars’ elsewhere.

Not far from Kounov, flanked by towering hop fields, is the town Žatec. The picturesque (though somewhat run-down) settlement identifies very strongly with its beer-brewing tradition. Its major attractions include a beer-themed astronomical clock, as well as the smallest hop field in the world, located just to the side of Freedom Square. Not to be missed either is the Moorish-style synagogue, which has been rescued from the brink of destruction and is being converted into an arts centre.

One of the greatest surprises of my travels across the Czech Republic was the town Kadaň. Despite its rich history – it was declared a royal city by Charles IV and had its own castle and monastery – people rarely speak of Kadaň as a particularly popular travel destination. Nevertheless, the town centre is well-preserved and exceedingly charming, with an eclectic collection of churches and gates. From across the river, it looks like a small Prague. In addition, Kadaň is known for the quirk of having the narrowest street in the Czech Republic, known as “Hangman’s Alley.”

From Kadaň, we continued to Hasištejn Castle, a ruin whose claim to fame is having been visited by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. Unlike Goethe, however, we were able to enjoy the main tower’s view of a nearby power plant, a sight that makes for a truly interesting juxtaposition. People nowadays joke that the castle’s founders must have been mad to build it in such a location.

The last major stop on our itinerary was Chomutov, a former industrial town that I have never heard mentioned in a positive context. Nevertheless, the town centre is remarkably well-preserved, and the city tower must be one of the prettiest in Bohemia. While in Chomutov, we also visited Alum Lake (Kamencové jezero), allegedly the only alum lake in the world. The special thing about its relatively high concentration of alum (which, through empirical testing, we determined could not be tasted) is that it prevents the growth of weed and anabaena.